Carnivorous plants require a significant amount of light to photosynthesize and grow. During the winter, when natural light is limited, it's crucial to supplement with artificial lighting. Invest in a full-spectrum grow light that mimics natural sunlight. Position the light source about 6 to 12 inches above the plant to ensure it receives the necessary light intensity. Always remember to follow manufacturer instructions for any artificial lighting. We grow most of our plants with high intensity grow lights, 6-8' away from the plants. Every grow light is different, so be sure you are comfortable with the placement, spacing and timing of the lights you purchase.
Carnivorous plants are native to regions with mild to warm climates. During the winter, it's important to keep the temperature within the optimal range for your specific plant species. Most carnivorous plants prefer temperatures between 60°F and 80°F (15°C and 27°C). Avoid exposing them to extreme cold or hot temperatures, as it can stress or damage the plant.
Carnivorous plants thrive in high humidity environments. During the winter, when indoor heating can cause dry air, it's essential to increase humidity levels around your plant. You can achieve this by using a humidifier or placing a tray filled with water near the plant. Another option is to create a mini terrarium by covering the plant with a clear plastic bag or dome to trap moisture.
Watering carnivorous plants correctly is crucial for their well-being. During the winter, when the plant's growth slows down, reduce the frequency of watering. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent root rot. Always use distilled or rainwater, as tap water may contain minerals that can harm the plant. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot in a tray of water for a few minutes, allowing the roots to soak up the moisture.
Many carnivorous plants require a period of dormancy during the winter. This mimics their natural habitat and allows them to rest and conserve energy. Research the specific dormancy requirements for your plant species and provide the necessary conditions. This may involve reducing the amount of light, lowering the temperature, and withholding fertilizers.
Carnivorous plants are sensitive to drafts, which can cause stress and damage. During the winter, ensure that your plant is placed away from windows, doors, and vents where cold drafts may occur. Keep it in a stable environment with consistent temperature and avoid sudden temperature fluctuations.
While carnivorous plants rely on insects for nutrients, it's important to avoid overfeeding during the winter. The reduced light and temperature can slow down the plant's metabolism, making it less capable of digesting and absorbing food. Feed your plant sparingly, offering small insects or pre-packaged freeze-dried insects every 3-4 weeks.
By following these tips, you can provide the ideal conditions for your carnivorous plant to thrive during the winter months. Remember to research the specific needs of your plant species and adjust your care accordingly. With proper attention and care, your carnivorous plant will continue to bring you joy and fascination all year round.
]]>Pruning plays a crucial role in maintaining the health and appearance of your vining houseplants. Here are a few reasons why pruning is essential:
Follow these steps to ensure you prune your vining houseplants correctly:
Before you begin pruning, gather the necessary tools, including a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or scissors. You can clean your shears or scissors with Isopropyl Alcohol, or a mild bleach solution. Blunt or dirty tools can damage the plant and introduce infections.
Take a close look at your vining houseplant and identify areas that require pruning. Look for dead or yellowing leaves, leggy stems, or any parts that are crossing or tangling with other branches.
Begin by removing any dead, yellowing, or damaged leaves and stems. Cut them off at the base, close to the main stem or branch. This will prevent the plant from wasting energy on these non-productive parts.
If you have a vining plant like the ones we talked about in our last post, with long, leggy stems, trim them back to a node or leaf joint. If you are unsure where the nodes are, feel free to send us a photo via email and we can circle exactly where we think you should cut. This will encourage new growth and help the plant maintain a more compact and bushy shape.
If any branches are crossing or tangling with each other, carefully remove the weaker or less desirable one. This will prevent overcrowding and allow better air circulation within the plant.
After pruning, step back and assess the overall shape and appearance of your vining houseplant. Make any additional cuts if necessary to achieve the desired shape and size.
Once you have finished pruning, clean your tools with rubbing alcohol or a mild bleach solution to prevent the spread of diseases and to be sure that they are ready for the next time you need to use them. Store them in a clean and dry place for future use.
Remember, each vining houseplant may have specific pruning requirements, so it's essential to research the specific needs of your plant before pruning. With proper pruning, your vining houseplants will thrive, maintaining their beauty and contributing to a healthier indoor environment.
]]>One of the most common reasons for a vining plant to produce vines without leaves is insufficient sunlight. Vining plants, like many other plants, require an adequate amount of sunlight to carry out photosynthesis, the process that enables them to produce energy and grow. If your plant is not receiving enough sunlight, it may prioritize growing long vines to reach for more light, sacrificing leaf production in the process.
Solution: Ensure that your vining plant is placed in a location where it can receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If natural sunlight is limited, consider using artificial grow lights to supplement the light requirements of your plant. Please, keep in mind that not every vining plant, Epipremnum (pothos) for instance, doesn't want direct light, but if your Cebu Blue is all legs and no leaves, you may need to move it to a spot in your home that has more light, filtered, of course.
Vining plants need a balanced supply of nutrients to support their growth and development. If your plant is lacking essential nutrients, it may focus its resources on vine growth rather than leaf production.
Solution: Use a well-balanced fertilizer specifically formulated for vining plants. Look for a fertilizer with a higher ratio of nitrogen (N) to promote leaf growth. Follow the recommended dosage instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid over-fertilization, which can harm your plant.
Here, in the Jungle Lab, we do not use any chemical based fertilizers, but instead, lean towards, and use, Fish Sh!t, from Fish Head Farms, in Mass. This is considered a soil conditioner, and not a true "fertilizer" but it naturally give the soil and root the nutrition in needs for the plant to grow large and lush.
If you happen to have a fresh water fish tank in your home, use that gross water change water to water your plants every time, and you will be amazed!
Pruning is an essential practice for vining plants as it helps maintain their shape, control growth, and promote leaf production. However, improper pruning techniques or excessive pruning can result in a plant that produces more vines than leaves.
Solution: Learn proper pruning techniques for your specific vining plant. Generally, it is recommended to prune back the vines to encourage branching and leaf growth. Avoid excessive pruning, as it can stress the plant and hinder leaf production. We will cover the best practices for pruning vining houseplants in our next post.
Pests can wreak havoc on your vining plant, causing damage to leaves and inhibiting their growth. Some pests, like aphids or spider mites, may prefer to feed on the leaves, leaving behind bare vines.
Solution: Regularly inspect your plant for any signs of pest infestation. If you notice pests, take appropriate measures to control them. This may include using organic insecticides, introducing beneficial insects, or manually removing the pests. You can find more detailed pest information in our Pest ID and Treatment pages.
Environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and air circulation can also impact leaf production in vining plants. Extreme temperatures, low humidity, or poor air circulation can stress the plant and hinder leaf growth.
Solution: Ensure that your vining plant is placed in an environment with suitable temperature and humidity levels. Provide adequate air circulation by using fans or opening windows. Avoid placing your plant near drafts or vents that can cause fluctuations in temperature or humidity.
By addressing these potential issues, you can help your vining plant produce not only long vines but also lush, healthy leaves. Remember to be patient and provide consistent care to your plant, and you'll soon see it thriving with abundant foliage.
]]>Winter can be a challenging time for houseplants. With the colder temperatures and lower levels of natural light, many plants struggle to thrive during this season. However, there are certain houseplants that are well-suited for the winter months and can bring life and beauty to your indoor space. In this blog post, we will explore the best houseplants for the winter months and how they can help improve the air quality in your home.
The Snake Plant, also known as Mother-in-Law's Tongue, is a popular choice for winter houseplants. It is known for its ability to tolerate low light conditions and can survive with minimal care. The Snake Plant is also an excellent air purifier, removing toxins such as formaldehyde and benzene from the air.
The Peace Lily is another great option for the winter months. It thrives in low light conditions and can even bloom during this time. The Peace Lily is also known for its ability to remove harmful toxins from the air, making it a great choice for improving indoor air quality.
The Chinese Evergreen is a beautiful houseplant that can tolerate low light conditions and fluctuating temperatures. It is known for its ability to remove toxins from the air, making it a great choice for improving indoor air quality during the winter months.
Pothos is a popular houseplant that is known for its ability to thrive in a variety of conditions, including low light. It is a trailing plant that can be grown in a hanging basket or trained to climb a trellis. Pothos is also an excellent air purifier, removing toxins such as formaldehyde from the air.
The Spider Plant is a resilient houseplant that can tolerate a wide range of conditions, including low light and dry air. It is known for its long, arching leaves and small white flowers. The Spider Plant is also an excellent air purifier, removing toxins such as formaldehyde and xylene from the air.
These are just a few examples of houseplants that can thrive during the winter months. When choosing houseplants for your home, it's important to consider the specific conditions of your space, such as light levels and temperature. By selecting the right houseplants, you can bring a touch of nature indoors and enjoy the benefits of improved air quality throughout the winter season.
]]>Before we dive into the topic, let's first understand what airplants are. Airplants, also known as Tillandsia, are a type of epiphyte that grow without soil. Instead of absorbing nutrients through their roots, they obtain everything they need from the air and water, through their leaves. This unique adaptation allows them to thrive in a variety of environments, making them a popular choice for indoor gardening.
While you may have been told to, and it may seem logical to soak your airplants in water, this is actually detrimental to their health. Airplants have specialized structures called trichomes on their leaves (if you have one, trichomes are those white fuzzy things you see on the leaves), which allow them to absorb water and nutrients from the air. When you soak them in water, these trichomes become waterlogged and can eventually rot, leading to the death of the plant.
Additionally, airplants are susceptible to rot if their "crown", or center of the plant is constantly wet. Soaking them in water can cause the crown to become waterlogged, leading to fungal and bacterial infections. This can quickly spread throughout the plant and cause irreversible damage.
Now that you know why soaking your airplants is a bad idea, let's talk about the proper way to care for them. The key to keeping your airplants healthy is to provide them with the right amount of water and air circulation.
Instead of soaking, misting your airplants 2-3x a week is the best way to hydrate them. Fill a spray bottle with filtered or distilled water and mist the leaves until they are lightly covered. This mimics the natural conditions they would experience in their native habitats. During the Spring and Summer months, you can add an Airplant, Orchid or Bromeliad fertilizer to the water, at 1/4 strength, to give your Tillys a boost.
In addition to misting, it's important to provide adequate air circulation for your airplants. They thrive in environments with good air flow, so make sure to place them in an area with proper ventilation. Avoid placing them in enclosed containers or terrariums, as this can trap moisture and lead to rot.
Airplants are fascinating plants that can bring a touch of nature into any space. By understanding their unique needs and avoiding common mistakes like soaking, you can ensure that your airplants thrive for years to come. Remember, misting and providing proper air circulation are the keys to keeping these remarkable plants happy and healthy.
]]>During the fall and winter months, many houseplants enter a period of dormancy. This is a natural response to the changing seasons and reduced sunlight. Repotting your houseplants during this time can disrupt their dormancy and cause unnecessary stress. It is best to wait until spring, when plants naturally begin to emerge from their dormant state, to repot them.
In the fall and winter, houseplants typically experience slower growth due to the limited sunlight and cooler temperatures. Repotting during this time can further hinder their growth as they are already conserving energy. By waiting until spring, when plants naturally experience a growth spurt, you can give your houseplants the best chance for successful repotting and healthy growth.
The fall and winter months often bring changes in environmental conditions, such as lower humidity levels and colder temperatures. These factors can make it more challenging for houseplants to recover from the stress of repotting. By waiting until the weather becomes more favorable in spring, you can provide a more stable and conducive environment for your plants to thrive.
Repotting involves disturbing the roots of your houseplant, which can be risky, especially during the fall and winter. Cold temperatures can make it harder for plants to recover from root damage, and the reduced sunlight can slow down the healing process. By avoiding repotting during these seasons, you can minimize the risk of root damage and ensure the overall health of your houseplants.
Instead of repotting your houseplants in the fall or winter, it is a good time to focus on other aspects of plant care, such as regular maintenance. This includes watering, fertilizing, and dusting off the leaves. By dedicating your attention to these tasks, you can help your houseplants stay healthy and prepare them for the upcoming growing season.
In conclusion, while it may be tempting to repot your houseplants during the fall or winter, it is best to resist the urge. By waiting until spring, you can avoid disrupting their dormancy, promote healthy growth, provide a more stable environment, minimize the risk of root damage, and focus on other essential aspects of plant care. Remember, timing is crucial when it comes to caring for your houseplants, so be patient and wait for the right season to repot.
]]>Our ever-loved Monstera Deliciosa is a Philodendron, right? Wrong.
Then why is it called a "Split Leaf Philodendron"?
The answer to that is something I cannot answer, other than to say, it is just a nickname the plant world has given it.
What about Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma? The "Mini Monstera".
Nope. Not a Monstera either.
While Philodendrons, Monstera, Rhaphidophora, Epipremnum (Pothos) and Scindapsus all have a lot in common, they are not the same, and I am going to do my best to break this down in to an easy to understand and follow explanation.
Let me begin with explaining how they are all similar.
Each of these genera belong to the Araceae family, or Aroid family. They all share some similarities, but are not the same as one another, which is why families of plants are broken down further into different genera. The Araceae family also includes very well-known genera such as Aglaonema, Anthurium and Dieffenbachia, but we all know that a Monstera and a Dieffenbachia are not the same.
Each of these genera are then further broken down into different species. Monstera, Philodendron, Epipremnum, Scindapsus, and Rhaphidophora are the genus names, from which we then get species, such as Monstera Deliciosa, Monstera Dubia, Philodendron Birkin, etc. While each species in a genus share many similarities, they each have their own characteristics that set them apart from the other species. The same is true for genera within a family.
Alright, so what makes a Monstera NOT a Philodendron?
The simplest explanation is fenestration. Fenestration refers to the holes in the leaves of certain plants, as they mature, such as Monstera and Rhaphidophora. Fenestration is different than "split leaves", and Monstera leaves split and fenestrate. Philodendron Lickety Split has many splits and lobes in it's leaves, but will not fenestrate. Epipremnum split with maturity too, but do not fenestrate.
Here is a visual of a maturing Monstera Deliciosa leaf. The main difference between a Monstera and a Philodendron are those holes.
Now, let's take a look at Rhaphidophora because I just said that they fenestrate with maturity too. Why are they not a Monstera?
For all intents and purposes, they are the same, except for one large difference:
the size of the mature leaves. Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is nicknamed Monstera Minima, or "Mini Monstera". The "minima" part of that nickname is exactly the difference between the 2 genera. Monstera literally mean monster, huge, giant, etc. Monstera leaves mature to very large sizes, typically many feet in length and width. While Rhaphidophora leaves mature and get larger, with fenestration, they just don't grow nearly as big. Rhaphidophora Decursiva and Pertusa probably have the largest mature leaves of the genus, but even they can not compare to the size of a mature Monstera leaf.
So, Monsteras are not Philodendrons because of fenestrations, and Rhaphidophora are not Monstera because of the size of their mature leaves.
What separates Epipremnum and Scindapsus from being a Philodendron?
Cataphylls. Cataphylls are the papery, reduced leaf like sheaths that Philodendrons produce as new leaves emerge. Epipremnum and Scindapsus do not have those. Another difference between Epipremnum and Philodendron is the petiole, or the part of the plant that joins the leaf to the stem. Epipremnum have a grooved petiole, where the center is ridged, where a Philodendron's petiole is completely rounded.
Here is a photo of an Epipremnum aurea (Golden Pothos) petiole. You can see the ridge, or indent as the petiole connects the leaf to the stem. Philodendron Cordatum, often confused with a Pothos, does not have this ridge, and it's petiole is completely rounded.
Ok, let's recap.
Monstera and Rhaphidophora fenestrate when Philodendron and Epipremnum don't. Rhaphidophora have smaller mature leaves than the giant Monstera and Epipremnum have grooved petioles, but Scindapsus does not.
So what makes an Epipremnum different from a Scindapsus?
This can be one of the most difficult to tell until you become more and more familiar with the different species of plants. Pothos and Scindapsus are often confused, and in most ways, are very similar. Visually, there are a few differences. Scindapsus have thicker, more textured leaves than Epipremnum. Additionally, where Epipremnum generally (there are some exceptions, of course) variegate with yellow, gold and white, Scindapsus boast beautiful shades of silver and grey.
Another difference between Epipremnum and Scindapsus is something that most people will never experience in their home. It is the number of seeds they produce. Epipremnum produce multiple seeds, where Scindapsus only have 1 ovule in each ovary, producing 1 seed.
I hope that I have helped clear up some of the confusion between these amazing plants. While some differences between genera are obvious, others can be quite small and easy to miss. As with all plants, there are other differences between these 5 genera that I have not gotten in to, mainly because at this stage, we do not need to. Those differences would include the size and shape of their "flower" or spathe and spadix, along with what types of creatures are responsible for pollinating them.
If you ever have questions about any of these 5 genera, or other plants here at the Jungle, please don't hesitate to reach out to us. We are happy to help!
Thanks for reading!
~Jordan
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